What to do to make a climbing rose bloom. Planting and caring for climbing roses. Wrong landing site

The climbing rose is one of the most striking decorations in the garden, but sometimes it ceases to please with its abundant flowering. Why doesn't the climbing rose bloom? Professional flower growers will tell you about the reasons and how to eliminate them.

Climbing roses have excellent decorative properties; they are used in the design of arches, arbors, fences, garlands, columns, etc. It is a real tragedy for a gardener if a climbing rose does not bloom.

Why don't climbing roses bloom?

1. Unsuitable soil

Climbing roses love loose, fertile soil. If these plants are not flowering, they are likely lacking nutrients. Then they need to be fed. In general, climbing roses are fed according to the following scheme:
In the first year after planting, you can not feed roses at all or feed them with organic matter: infusion of mullein (1:10) or chicken manure (1:20) at the rate of 3-5 liters per bush.
In the spring, after removing the cover and pruning, it is recommended to apply ammonium nitrate at the rate of 30 g per 1 sq.m. After 2 weeks, fertilizing should be repeated.
At the beginning of budding, another feeding is carried out. This time you can use complex fertilizers based on nitrogen (for example, Kemiru Lux (30 g per 1 sq.m)).
Before the first flowering, climbing roses need one more feeding. An infusion of mullein (1:10) and chicken manure (1:20) in an amount of 3-5 liters per bush is suitable for this.
After the first wave of flowering (late July - early August), roses should be fertilized with complex mineral fertilizers (according to instructions), preferably not containing nitrogen.
The last feeding is carried out after the rose has flowered and is aimed at ripening the shoots. To do this, you should use superphosphate (30 g per 1 sq.m.).
It is also worth remembering that before planting the bush, the soil must be loosened to a depth of 70 cm. Unsuitable soil or its poor-quality treatment affect the flowering and number of buds of the plant.

2. Wild growth

Roses often form shoots - these are small branches with leaves and thorns that appear in the root zone. If the shoots that thicken the bush are not removed in a timely manner, the plant will begin to grow wild and stop blooming. Root shoots should be trimmed close to the ground. And it is advisable to do this in a timely manner.

3. Excess nitrogen fertilizers

Excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers promotes the growth of lush green mass, which has a detrimental effect on the process of bud formation. It is better to replace nitrogen fertilizers with a mixture of potassium salt and superphosphate.

4. Diseases of climbing roses

Among the large list of rose diseases, powdery mildew and bark cancer most often affect these plants. Preventive measures against powdery mildew are to spray dormant buds and shoots twice with 1% Bordeaux mixture. But the prevention of bark cancer will be feeding climbing roses with potassium fertilizers (in September, superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20-30 g each), correct and timely covering of plants for the winter, destruction of affected shoots, ventilation of plants covered for the winter during thaws.

5. Wrong landing site

Sometimes flower growers plant the queen of flowers in an unsuitable place for her, which can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but also to the death of the plant itself. It is important to know that climbing roses do not tolerate drafts and shade very well.

6. Poor preparation for winter

Roses require special shelter for the winter, as they can die not only from low temperatures, but also from dampness during the winter thaw. Therefore, do not forget about the air gap between the plant and the shelter. From the end of summer, you should stop loosening the soil and frequent watering, eliminate nitrogen fertilizers (leave only potassium fertilizers), cut out all wild growth, weak and damaged shoots.

7. Incorrect pruning

Climbing roses only need to remove old shoots and wild growth. Excessive pruning of young branches is undesirable, as this does not allow the bush to grow normally. Prune roses moderately so that they do not spend a lot of energy recovering from this procedure.

Now that it’s clear why climbing roses don’t bloom, you can fix everything and plant a climbing rose along the column.

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How to let a climbing rose climb a column?

If there is not enough space in your garden for lush thickets of climbing roses, but you still want to have a “pink” corner, you can try to cover a column with roses.
They begin to form an adult climbing rose bush around the column after spring pruning.

1. Choose a sturdy support for the rose. It can be either a long wooden beam or a beautiful decorative column. The main condition is strength. After all, you don't want poor quality Has this support broken under the weight of flowering vines?
2. Securely install the column 40 cm from the bush. It is necessary to dig the support deep into the ground and perhaps even concrete the base. In this case, you won’t have to worry that the support will fall under the pressure of the first squally wind and bury all your dreams of a beautiful column covered with roses.
3. Begin to wrap the main strands around the column in a spiral. Again, keep in mind that lush flowering can only be achieved if the shoots are located at an angle of no more than 45 degrees relative to the support.
4. It is not necessary to grow short side shoots around columnar ones. It will be enough to carefully lift them and tie them to a support with soft tape or place them between the main shoots. This will add dimension to your floral design.
5. Tie the shoots loosely around the column at the very top of the support to prevent the bush from falling apart under the weight of the inflorescences.

Sometimes even experienced flower growers find it difficult to say why a rose does not bloom. Knowing the basic rules of caring for a beautiful flower will allow you to enjoy its magnificent colors and delicious aroma.

When breeding roses, you need to be prepared for the fact that theoretical recommendations from experts and the real situation in practice may have some inconsistencies with each other. Therefore, even experienced gardeners find it very difficult to determine why a rose does not bloom. The reason for the lack of buds on a bush can be either insufficient air humidity, impurities in the soil, the composition of local water, or insufficient knowledge of the basics of caring for this beautiful flower. Let's look at the main mistakes gardeners make. Read about

The rose does not bloom: the bush runs wild

In most cases, the roses growing in our area are grafted and not rooted. Therefore, you may not notice the appearance of wild growth from the rootstock of a bush on which a cultivated rose is grafted. Such wild shoots weaken the bush, and it gradually loses its varietal properties. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to promptly remove this insidious growth, which is located at the very bottom. It is easy to identify by its very small leaves and large number of thorns. As soon as you see such a whip, tear up the ground and boldly cut it off at the very base.

Soil quality

Often a rose does not bloom due to inappropriate soil structure or improper cultivation. To prevent this from happening, you should not plant it in dense, heavy soil. To obtain a lighter composition, you can add sand under the bush and gently loosen it to a depth of 5-7cm.

Fertilizer application

The reason why a rose does not bloom on a site may be a lack or excess of fertilizers applied to the soil. The main sign of excess nitrogen fertilizing is the active growth of lush foliage without the formation of buds. The situation can be corrected by adding phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or ash.

The rose menu should include low concentration fertilizing from an infusion of liquid organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Nutrient mixtures are introduced alternately, alternating them every two weeks.

Pruning a rose bush

The purpose of pruning a bush is to rejuvenate it, which allows you to increase the abundance of flowering. The event is held every spring, thereby ridding the plant of weak, diseased and unproductive shoots, and the remaining shoots receive impulses for further development.

First of all, when pruning, all weak, diseased branches damaged by frost and disease are removed. Next, the shoots that are directed inside the bush are pruned.

This will ensure ventilation of the inside of the rose and eliminate possible accumulation of pests and fungal diseases.

Next, all unproductive shoots are removed, which include branches older than 3 years. They are easily identified by their highly woody trunk and dark color. It is on such branches that in most cases buds do not appear, since their vessels have lost elasticity and are completely clogged with salts. The remaining shoots are shortened in accordance with the rose variety. Pruning can be done to 3-4 buds (short), 5-7 buds (moderate) and up to 8 buds (weak).

Wintering a rose bush

Also, the rose does not bloom as a result of improper wintering. To avoid freezing and exposure to moisture before the onset of cold weather, the rose bush should be covered with rotted peat, covered with protective material or fallen leaves. Experienced gardeners also make special cones from polystyrene foam and cover the plants with them.

In addition to the above reasons, when choosing a variety, pay attention to its features. Since the reason why a rose does not bloom may be that the conditions of your site do not correspond to its full development.

Video: blind shoots of roses

If you decide to get climbing roses in your garden, then you need to know all the stages of planting them. First, choose a place for roses, then prepare the seedlings and soil. Let's look at each step in more detail.

1. Choosing a place and time

The sun has a beneficial effect on roses, but swampiness can be detrimental to them. Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the area is well lit before lunch. The sun's rays will dry the remaining dew on the leaves. This way you minimize the risk of developing fungal diseases.

At the same time, you should not choose a completely open place, since being under the scorching sun all day, the plant can burn its delicate petals and leaves.

It is better to protect the climbing rose from winds and drafts, so planting it on the corners of buildings is not recommended. It will be convenient if there is a building nearby that is suitable for wintering shrubs. Water should not be allowed to stagnate. The selected location should be located on a slope. You should also know the depth of groundwater flow.

The root system of the climbing rose penetrates to a depth of 2 meters, so it is better to plant the shrub on a hill. Or, when planting, place a slab or stone at the bottom of the hole so that the roots spread horizontally, without reaching wet places.

If you are planting roses to decorate the walls of a building, then it is better to step back half a meter from the building- meter, since the bush may lack nutrients. Also exclude close proximity to other plants.

It is better to plant bushes in the fall, starting from the end of September until the beginning of October, so that it has time to take root and undergo the adaptation process before the onset of the first frost. Thus, in the spring the bush will begin to actively develop and will be full of strength for flowering.

If a rose is planted in the spring, then development will occur with a delay of about half a month, and it will require more careful care.

2. Processing of seedlings

In order for the plant to quickly strengthen and develop dynamically, it is necessary to properly treat the seedlings before planting. If the seedlings are pruned and then fed with fertilizers, they will develop immunity, develop faster, and delight their owners with the riotous flowering of fragrant buds.

Preparation stages:

1. Soaking seedlings for 24 hours in water.
2. Trimming shoots and roots.
3. Sprinkle cut areas with crushed charcoal.
4. Treatment of the root system with a mixture of fertilizers.

In the process of pruning the shoots, weak stems are completely removed. Full shoots are selectively shortened to 15 centimeters. You should inspect the roots of the bush. Parts that are too long or crushed should be removed, and only a small bunch of healthy shoots should be left.

To prepare 10 liters of mixture for feeding the roots, use part of the clay, a tenth of mullein and a couple of phosphorobacterin tablets. The drug “heteroauxin” has also proven itself well. One tablet will be enough.

3. Soil preparation

Loamy soil with a loose structure that absorbs moisture well is ideal for climbing roses. Water permeability of the soil will eliminate the accumulation of precipitation in the root system area and prevent its rotting. Rose will not grow on sandy or clay soils, so it is better to dilute them with more suitable soils.

To make the soil consistency more crumbly, just add lime to it. Fertilization with humus, humus, and phosphorus-containing substances has a positive effect on increasing fertility. The planting area needs to be dug up regularly: at the end of summer, as well as at the beginning of spring.

4. Planting process

First you need to dig a hole. It should not be small so that the roots of the bush do not feel the lack of space. The optimal depth is 60 centimeters. Between bushes you should maintain a distance of half a meter to a meter, and row spacing should be 1-2 meters.

The root collar is buried 10 centimeters deep to protect it from frost. The roots are positioned so that they spread freely, and the spaces between them are carefully covered with soil. About 5 kilograms of peat compost must be added to the pit. After the pit is covered, the top layer should be thoroughly compacted. You can plant the bushes in a checkerboard pattern so that they do not shade each other.

How to properly care for a climbing rose

The main thing in proper care is optimal watering, rational pruning, and timely fertilizing.

Shrubs need to be watered infrequently, but abundantly, taking into account the characteristics of the deeply penetrating root system. One bush will require 15 liters of water. During periods of drought, watering should be done once a week. If the bush is recently planted, moisten the soil more often until the roots take root.

Bushes are trimmed to form a decorative crown and stimulate flowering. In the spring you need to cut off those stems that did not survive the winter well. Autumn pruning depends on the type of plant and the frequency of its flowering. If the shrub pleases you with flowering once a year, then you need to leave 5 annual and the same number of biennial shoots. If your shrub blooms twice a season, then you need to leave 2-3 annual stems and a larger number of flowering ones - about 7.

Please note that the fertilizers applied during planting are sufficient to nourish the plant only for the next two years of its life. Next, it is necessary to support the shrub with organic matter and mineral fertilizers, especially during the growing season - up to 5 times.

Another important point is tying the branches, on which the formation of buds depends. This cannot be done without properly selected support.

1. Rose support

Climbing roses will not be able to fully develop if they do not have a suitable support.

The choice of support should be taken very seriously, since it must meet the following criteria:

1. Strength. It must be stable and reliable in order to withstand the weight of heavy rose branches. The structure needs to be dug in well and strengthened.
2. Matching the interior. The support for the rose should be in harmony with the design of the site and be beautifully decorated. After all, a young bush will not immediately be able to entwine it.
3. Matching rose variety. Huge supports are not suitable for short-growing roses, and arches that are too small will quickly become unsuitable for tall varieties.
4. Compactness. When choosing a support, consider the length of the branches so that you can form a beautiful, dense bush that does not take up much space.

There are these types of supports:

1. Trellis-mesh. It is a mesh (“chain-link” or rope with large cells) stretched between two supports. Suitable for varieties with graceful, non-massive branches.
2. Arch. A decorative and very functional support due to its spaciousness. With its help, you can divide the area into zones, decorate passages, paths and entrances to gazebos. They can be wooden or forged, but they look equally elegant and expensive.
3. Cone-shaped supports. This is a structure consisting of rods placed in a circle and gathered at the top into a bundle. Help you create a variety of flower arrangements.

2. Transplant

Mature shrubs require replanting if the initially chosen location does not meet any criteria. It is better to do this in early autumn so that the roots have time to adapt before winter. Although you can replant in early spring, immediately after the soil thaws.

But you should not delay this process until the kidneys swell. The bush must be dug very carefully with maximum depth to preserve the roots. Leave only high-quality root shoots, and remove the rest with pruning shears. When planting a rose in a new hole, straighten the roots so that they do not bend upward.

Cover the hole with soil, water it, after a few days you will need to add more soil, because the plant may settle.

3. Diseases and pests

Climbing roses are susceptible to a number of diseases that not only worsen their appearance, but can also lead to the death of the entire bush:

1. Bacterial cancer. It manifests itself in the form of the formation of large growths on the roots and root collar. They need to be carefully removed and the wounds treated with a solution of copper sulfate. If a plant is heavily infected, it is better to dig it up and burn it to protect other shrubs from infection.
2. Powdery mildew. This is a fungal disease that is accompanied by the appearance of a gray coating on the leaves and stems. Infection is promoted by high humidity, temperature fluctuations, and excess nitrogen. The affected areas should be treated with a solution of soda or sulfur. Infected shoots must be removed b.
3. Black spot. It is manifested by the appearance on the leaves of a large number of round spots of brown or black color with a yellow border. They enlarge and occupy the entire area of ​​the foliage, after which the leaves dry out and fall off. The disease is transmitted by air. Treatment consists of spraying with a solution of vitriol or Bordeaux mixture.

Care after flowering

After flowering, climbing roses need to be pruned properly. Damaged, dry branches need to be removed to thin out heavily overgrown bushes. Then you need to feed the bushes with fertilizers containing potassium.

Reproduction methods

Climbing beauties can be propagated in three ways. The most common cuttings, which guarantee almost 100 percent results. Cuttings are cut only from high-quality shoots; there must be several internodes. They need to be cut at an angle. The cutting is placed in a box with a sand-earth mixture with a recess of 1 centimeter and covered with a jar.

You can also try propagation by layering. To do this, you need to dig an oblong hole, lay a layer of humus on its bottom, sprinkle it with soil, and bend the shoot down. If you cut off a little bark under the buds, roots will form much faster. We dig in the shoot and attach it, and place its end vertically.

Popular varieties of climbing roses

All climbing roses are divided into two groups - ramblers (with small flowers) and climbers (with large flowers).

Rambler varieties:

1. Crimson Shower- a variety with bright red buds, from which a rich sweet aroma emanates. It pleases with its abundant flowering for a very long time.
2. Bobbie James- the buds of this variety resemble cherry blossoms and have a musky aroma. The bushes reach seven meters in height.
3. Excelsa- This is the most persistent variety with bright crimson, double flowers. Disadvantage: very short-term flowering (only a month).

Varieties of climbing roses Climbers:

1. Aloha- a climbing rose that pleases the eye with abundantly flowering bushes with apricot-colored buds with burgundy edging.
2. Graciosa- a variety of climbing rose with exquisite pearl-colored flowers with a pink tint. Large buds have a persistent aroma.
3. Jasmina- a variety with strong branches, capable of covering large surfaces.

As you can see, climbing roses are very diverse. Everyone can choose exactly the variety that will most harmoniously fit into the interior of the garden plot.

Ecology of life. Estate: Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, gazebos, and fences.

Gardeners have always been especially admired by the climbing rose with its long branches strewn with luxurious flowers. This is a real find for a landscape designer, which allows you to create flowering arches, columns, gazebos, and fences.

Despite the huge lashes, reaching 5-6 m in length, all varieties of climbing roses are shrubs. One would think that in this case, planting and caring for them is similar to other types of roses, but everything is not so simple. Long whips impose special obligations on the owner of such luxury. Therefore, in order to achieve true aesthetics from a climbing rose, you need to know how to properly care for it.

Planting time: spring or autumn?

All types of “queen of flowers” ​​are considered quite capricious, and climbing roses are no exception, the care of which must be thought out to the smallest detail. And you need to start with the right choice of planting time. It is best to time this event on warm days in May.

In this case, you will be sure that the plants will have time to get stronger before winter and will not die during the cold weather. Climbing rose bushes with dormant buds can be planted before the trees begin to bud, as soon as the soil warms up to 10-12°. If you bought a seedling in a greenhouse (that is, with leaves), then it should be planted only after the buds have bloomed on the trees.

You can also plant bushes in August-September, but then there is always a risk of the plant dying if it does not have time to take root properly before the onset of frost.

Landing place

The area for planting climbing roses should be well lit in the first half of the day. This is important, since it is the warm morning sun that will dry the dew on the leaves and will not give a chance to fungal diseases. A completely open area is not so preferable, since midday sunlight can cause the delicate petals to “burn” and even dry out the entire plant.

Be sure to pay attention to the fact that the chosen place is protected from cold northern and northeastern winds, and is not located on the corner of a building where there are constant drafts - a delicate climbing rose does not like this, its development will inevitably be inhibited.

Soil for climbing roses: what to consider?

Climbing rose develops normally only on permeable soils. This means that rain (or irrigation) water should pass freely deep into the ground and not linger in the root zone. Otherwise, rotting of the root system and death of the plant from lack of nutrition are inevitable.

Therefore, if the groundwater in your area is too close to the surface of the earth, you should plant roses only on hills. However, if this is not possible, you can do it another way: dig a hole to a depth that does not reach the groundwater level, and then concrete the bottom or put a large flat stone there.

This precaution will not allow groundwater to “get” to the root zone and damage them, in addition, the tap roots will not go deep and their bulk as they grow will not be located vertically, but horizontally. After this, a sufficient layer of fertile soil is poured onto the stone or concrete, where the plant is subsequently planted.

Climbing roses grow best on fertile loams - they are sufficiently water- and breathable to ensure good nutrition of the root system. Heavy clay and light sandy soil are not suitable for growing roses. At the same time, if this is the kind of soil on your site, you shouldn’t despair.

The situation can be improved by adding sand to clay soils, and diluting sandy soils with clay. This will adjust the soil's permeability to air and water, but will not add soil fertility. To improve this indicator, humus or humus should be added to the soil.

Distance between climbing roses

When planting, it is necessary to provide a distance between roses of 0.5 - 1 m in a row and 1-2 m between rows. If planting is carried out near a gazebo or the wall of a house, then the distance between the plant and the blind area should be at least 0.35 - 0.5 m.

You can divide the garden into several zones using trellises lined with climbing roses on both sides. Plants are planted in a checkerboard pattern so as not to shade each other. At the same time, the distance between them is maintained at 0.5 - 1 m, as with a conventional planting scheme. Such a screen will be decorative all summer, even when the climbing rose has faded.

Preparing a seedling for planting

Before you begin planting, the rose bush must be carefully inspected and all broken, crushed and rotten parts of the root system must be removed. Cuts for disinfection are powdered with crushed charcoal to prevent the resulting wounds from rotting. Next, it is advisable to dip the roots into a mash mixture consisting of clay with an admixture of fresh mullein (10%) and phosphorobacterin. 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin are pre-dissolved in 0.5 liters of water, and then this composition is poured into 9.5 liters of mash. Mullein can be replaced with heteroauxin by adding 1 tablet to 10 liters of mash.

When planting in spring, seedlings of any variety of climbing rose are pruned. In this case, two developed buds are left on strong shoots, and one on weak shoots. If planting is done in the fall, then pruning is still done in the spring, after removing the winter shelter from the bushes.

Planting and caring for young seedlings

To begin with, dig a hole, the dimensions of which should ensure the free placement of the roots, and the root collar must be buried at least 10 cm. Such a measure will protect it from winter cold, since at such a depth with normal shelter (for example, under spruce branches), the temperature does not drop below -2 degrees. Also, deepening the root collar of self-rooted climbing roses will contribute to the formation of a large number of additional roots.

A mound of fertile soil is poured into the hole, around which the roots are spread evenly and covered, if possible, leaving no voids. After filling the hole with earth, it is compacted with feet. For better survival, self-rooted climbing roses are watered with a mixture of phosphorobacterin and heteroauxin.

During the growing season, the climbing rose needs regular watering, fertilizing, removing weeds, dried flowers and weak branches.
After removing the winter shelter with the onset of spring warmth, pruning is carried out, last year's plant debris is removed, the roses are sprayed with pesticides, the soil around the plant is loosened, and the necessary fertilizers are applied.

Proper pruning of a climbing rose

Climbing roses need proper pruning, the purpose of which is to form, obtain long and abundant flowering, and improve the health of the crown. Pruning also helps to ensure that the plant is completely covered with new growth.

Pruning is carried out after the plant has completely bloomed, that is, at the end of summer. First of all, diseased and damaged branches are cut out. Strong annual shoots are not removed. Old shoots are removed if new replacement shoots appear on the branch. That is, pruning is done in such a way that new, annual shoots replace old shoots. Biennial shoots are not pruned - it is on them that the bulk of the flowers will concentrate next summer.

Garter of climbing roses

When forming a climbing rose, you should not strive for all the main branches to grow upward. It may happen that all the flowers and leaves are “relocated” to the upper part of the plant, and this will not add to its aesthetics.

Therefore, to avoid such trouble, you need to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Then vertical side shoots will soon appear on them, growing upward. This principle of forming a climbing rose will perfectly camouflage a trellis or wall, and will also provide luxurious and long-lasting flowering.

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Caring for a climbing rose in winter

In winter, any roses, including climbing ones, require shelter. At the same time, it is important to know that there should be air space between the shelter (film, roofing felt, spruce branches) and the plant. If possible, remove the rose vines from the support, remove rotten, diseased shoots, as well as all leaves.

After this, the branches are wrapped with twine and secured to the ground with wooden or metal pins. The top of the lashes is covered with roofing felt, film, leaves or spruce branches. In much the same way, you can cover a climbing rose directly on a support, for example, if it entwines an arch. In this case, the support is first tied with burlap, roofing felt or film, and then covered with spruce branches. published