Planting winter onion sets. Winter onion varieties

More than a thousand years ago, onions began to be grown in Iran, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan. The culture was planted on mountain slopes, which determined the depth of the root system.

Due to the ability to survive on a small layer of soil, the onion has developed the ability to remain dormant with a lack of moisture. Dry scales protect it from damage and drying out.Currently, onions are widely distributed as a culture.

It is considered moody to grow. If the weather is dry, the onion begins to throw out arrows, and if it is damp, it rot. However, the gardeners figured out how to grow it.

Onions need to be planted in winter.

Onion sets: how to choose

The size of the bulb determines the category: first - the diameter of the bulb is 1-1.5 cm; the second is 1.5-3 cm; the third is more than 3 cm; wild oat - the diameter is less than 1 cm. For sowing in winter it is better to use the first category set or wild oat. Why?

Small bulbs, as a rule, do not survive until spring, they dry out. Therefore, it will be better if the winter bow is planted in the ground.

Here it winters well and will give a good harvest in July. A sowing of the second and third categories, that is, large, it is better not to plant in winter, it gives arrows. For the cultivation of winter onions, special varieties and hybrids obtained by crossing are used, which are capable of forming bulbs and not giving an arrow.

Popular varieties of winter onions

Each owner chooses for himself what kind of onion he needs. The choice depends on the result you expect from this culture. Therefore, you need to know the winter varieties of onion sets.

• Stuttgarter Riesen - this variety owes its popularity to its early ripening. The bulbs of the culture are flat-round, dense, large, have a pungent taste, keep well and give a high yield. Centurion is a high-class variety. It shoots a little, keeps well, does not get sick, has a high yield. Bulbs of the same size have dry outer skin. In the root zone there is a bottom. Shakespeare is an early variety, little arrows, well preserved, has large dark yellow bulbs. The pulp is white, juicy. The scales are very dense. Radar - This variety can only be used in fresh... It is unsuitable for storage due to its color.
• Baron is great for winter planting... It ripens early and contains more vitamin C than other varieties. Differs in large bulbs and pungent taste. It is especially good when fresh.

How to properly prepare the soil for sowing

To plant winter onions, choose a well-lit place with a drain of rainwater so that the water does not stagnate even when the snow melts in spring. They make a bed one meter wide and 20 cm high. Clean it from the vegetation that grew on it.

It is better to plant onions in the place where cucumbers, tomatoes or potatoes grew. They well disinfect the soil. Suitable for this copper sulfate, while putting no more than 1 tbsp on a bucket of water. spoons. The garden is watered with this solution.

In order for the onion sets to give large, strong bulbs, humus, peat, superphosphate and a bed must be dug into the soil along with fertilizers.

Dutch onions and garlic. Winter planting technology. VASSMA Retail Company.

When to sow onions

Planting winter onions makes it possible to harvest from July to mid-August. Sowing time is October. The bulbs must be given the opportunity to root before severe frosts. With early planting, the seedlings sprout before the onset of cold, such plants will not survive the winter, they will die. When to plant winter onions?

You need to look at the weather, she will tell you the exact date of sowing. This will be roughly the middle of the month.

Planting onion sets in the winter

All summer residents are looking forward to the time when it is possible to plant winter onions. First you need to prepare the planting material. It is sorted out. This can be done in the simplest way.

Holes with a diameter of 1 cm are cut in thick cardboard and seeds are sifted through such a sieve. Those that go through the holes are suitable. After preparing the soil for sowing, you need to level and compact the bed.

Then, along its entire length, shallow grooves are made, five centimeters deep and at a distance of 15 cm from each other. Well-dried seeds are carefully sown into a groove at a distance of 3-4 cm.

The sevok is sealed to a depth of 2-3 cm, after which it is carefully covered with soil mixed with peat and humus. If the sevok is planted at a great depth, then the bulbs may not germinate and die. They just don't have the strength to do it.

Planting winter bows takes a lot of time and patience.

How to protect sevok from freezing

In order for the seed to endure the winter frosts well and give strong shoots in the spring, you need to cover the soil with mulch from peat or humus. This will preserve moisture, the seeds will root well. With the onset of severe frosts, cover the garden with foliage and straw.

And when it snows, hold it back. If you plant correctly and cover the sevok on time, then in the second month of summer it will already be possible to eat winter onions.In the spring, when the snow melts and the soil thaws, you need to remove the mulch from the garden. After the seedlings germinate and the first leaves appear, fertilize with a liquid solution of manure and bird droppings.

Onions in the winter: what care is needed

With the onset of spring, the seedlings sprout and begin to grow rapidly. But not only them. Weeds are more unpretentious, there are always a lot of them, and you need to fight with them. At this time, it is necessary to loosen and weed the aisles. Moist soil is usually stored in the fall.

It is enough for onion growth before harvest. But it happens that there is a strong heat for more than a month and the soil dries up. Then you need to water it several times during the summer season.

Winter onions need the same care as regular ones. If arrows appear, leave a few to collect the seeds and remove the rest.

Onion pests: how to deal with them

Winter onions are damaged by an onion fly. This is a dangerous pest, if it gets to your plantings, it will destroy the entire crop. Larvae are a sign of its appearance. white... They swarm about the bulbs, eating them.

Adult insects are very similar to the common fly. It appears in mid-May and gives offspring three times before the onset of cold weather. Only dry weather can reduce fertility. To prevent onion crops from being damaged, you can cover them with a net for protection.

The smell of calendula and marigolds repels the pest. Therefore, plant these flowers in the spring bed where the winter onion grows. You can spray the plants with an infusion of wormwood or tansy.

Onion diseases: fighting them

Winter onions, the cultivation of which requires knowledge of agricultural technology, are affected by fungi.

• Rust is one of them. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves from mid-summer. The best environment for the development and spread of this disease is warm and humid weather. Gray mold often appears during harvest. Dry the onion well before storing it. Damp will rot. Seeds and bulbs are infected with powdery mildew, which persists in them all winter and is often false. If the weather is warm and humid, the infection can affect the entire onion plantation. This disease can be determined by elongated gray spots, which increase in size until the plant dies completely.

To avoid fungal infection, you need to alternate planting garden crops in the area and when storing onions, ventilate the room well.

Planting for the winter: what are the advantages

• There is no need to save onion sets in winter. Small planting material grows large bulbs. Winter onions, which do not require care, do not release arrows. Onions ripen early and are stored for a long time. Bulbs grow healthy, as sick and weak crops freeze out in winter. In the photo, the winter bow is clearly visible.
• This crop is less prone to onion fly infestation. It takes less time to plant. The family budget wins - in the fall, the seedlings are cheaper.

What could be the reason for failures in growing winter onions

• Water retention in the beds in the spring. This causes the bulbs to get wet. Deep seeding into the soil. Early planting of the seedlings. This leads to the germination of the bulbs before frost. Poor soil mulching, which leads to repeated thawing and freezing of the bulbs.

Growing perennial onions of different types

Young leaves of onions are tasty and healthy, they should always be present on our table. To get green tops, many plant turnip onions, but its perennial relatives have a much more interesting feather. It is not only richer in vitamins, but also softer in taste.

It is equally important that the crown time of perennial onions is early spring, when nothing has yet managed to grow in the garden. Growing perennial onions does not require special care, they are unpretentious and frost-resistant. They all grow well in fertile, non-acidic soils. In my garden, four are held in high esteem: the batun, slug, chives and those walking along the beds are multi-tiered.

Perennial bows - types

Batun - beam on beamAmong the perennial bows, the trampoline is one of the most popular. winter, Russian or Siberian. By the end of the first year of life, the plant forms small clumps of 3-5 branches.

Further, every year the bushes grow and can have from 30 to 60 branches. However, already in the 3-4th year, the yield decreases, the leaves become coarse, the plant begins to shoot more early datesThe first feathers of this bow appear immediately after the snow melts.

For the entire season, with good care, 3-4 crops can be harvested from the garden. Early cuts do not harm the batun (if after them the plantings are fed, watered, loosened).

Already after a month, the plants grow so much that they cannot be distinguished from those on which cutting was not carried out. In the summer you need to make sure that the onions do not bloom. All peduncles are cut with a sharp knife. By winter, the arrows of the onion dry out.

They must be removed, because pests can hibernate in them. In household plots, the onion is most often propagated by dividing the bush. This is best done in summer, after flowering. With this planting, the first crop can be harvested next spring.

If the onion is sown with seeds in mid-June, the harvest will be in the second year. The green feather of the baton usually remains tender and tasty until it begins to throw out the arrows. Therefore, in recent years, I began to grow it through sowing nigella.

I spend it in two terms. In March - April, as soon as the soil permits, I sow very densely, then the leaves are softer. I start harvesting from the end of July, thinning the plants and pulling them out entirely.

If I do not have time to pull out all the bushes before frost and some of them remain before winter, in the spring I cover the plantings with foil. As soon as the feather grows well, I dig them out by the root. In July, then the plants go into winter in the phase of 3-4 leaves.

In the spring, I select the largest ones and plant them on a separate bed in cut grooves at a distance of 15 cm from each other, burying them into the soil along the leaves. As soon as new ones grow, I huddle. And so three times over the summer.

Watering the plantings, I always add herbal infusion to the water. I pull out the bushes entirely with a bleached thick juicy leg, almost like a leek. With this accelerated cultivation, hybrids work well Parade F1, Performer F1, Green Banner F1.

With the "long-playing", early ripening varieties showed themselves well Russian winter and Welsh... Hybrids without shelter can freeze out in winter. If you plan to grow onion in one place for 3-4 years, you should not sow seeds in early spring.

This practically does not accelerate the receipt of products, but in the next season the number of shooting plants increases significantly.Slime - perennial onion for a children's gardenSlime onion is a stocky herbaceous perennial with juicy, flat, wide leaves.

If you cut them off, they secrete a viscous transparent viscous mucus, which, obviously, gave the name to this type of onion. Blooms in the second year. Before flowering, the umbrella "looks" down.

As soon as the first soft lilac flowers begin to open, the arrow straightens up. Despite the fact that growing a slime is not particularly difficult, it is quite rare in our gardens. And it is clearly not able to compete in terms of popularity with the batun onion.

However, it is worth having at least a few plants of such an onion on the site! Slime onion is especially valuable because it contains large quantities of mineral salts of iron, manganese, potassium, zinc, molybdenum, nickel, as well as essential oil. Therefore, it is very useful for anemia.

At the same time, the taste of its leaves is pleasant, slightly pungent, with a slight garlic-onion smell. Children eat them with pleasure. The leaves remain juicy and tender for almost the entire growing season. The more often you cut the leaves of the slime onion (after] 2-2.5 weeks), the softer they will be.

The slime bush has been growing in one place for more than seven years and now occupies an area of \u200b\u200babout half a meter. I cut it off in bunches together with a piece of rhizome, in this case, it quickly gives new young shoots. And the bush does not thicken so much. For the winter I sprinkle it with a bucket of humus.

This, in general, is the whole care. He even survives weeds on his own (except for dandelions). I do not use slime for winter forcing. He has a powerful root system, very little greenery is obtained from one pot. You can't beat off a beautiful border from it.

Although this onion blooms very beautifully, giving out large purple balls on thin arrows, its "thickets" are rare. But on the site it can live even in the most extreme conditions. Read more about growing slime onions here

Multi-tiered (walking) bow - also from perennial

In spring, one of the first perennial bows to grow a multi-tiered or walking bow (viviparous, horned, Egyptian, Canadian ...). In the first year, it looks like a batun with fisty hollow leaves.

On the second, it forms a flower arrow with several tiers (we have up to three) of small bulbous bulbs. The largest bulbs (5 pieces up to 2 cm in diameter) are formed on the first tier at a height of 60-80 cm.They immediately begin to grow leaves 10-15 cm long.

Under the weight of the bulbs, the stems fall to the ground, and the bulbs begin to take root. This is how this onion is resettled. The main crop of greens is obtained from underground bulbs.

They are large (3-7 cm in diameter), form nests and are very similar to shallots, but do not ripen and are poorly stored. The leaves are dark green, very tender, juicy and tasty. They are used for food, like any young feather.

But the air bulbs can be boiled and fried, and also put into winter preparations: pickled separately and together with other vegetables. Bulbs that have taken root become unsuitable for canning, therefore, for arrows, you need to tie them to supports.

And to get large bulbs, you should pinch the plant after the formation of the first tier.If air bulbs are not needed, then the feather is cut from the entire garden.

Then it can grow one or two more times, it depends on the care. The taste and tenderness of the leaves are preserved until the first tier of bulbs appears. The plantings should be regularly renewed (every 3-4 years). You can divide the nests or use air bulbs. Bulbules are planted in August-September so that they have time to take root before winter.

Chives - the most beautiful of the perennial bows

I allocated a place for luxurious shnit bushes in the flower garden, its neat purple bouquets are painfully beautiful during flowering. I cut off his feather only in early spring. In the summer, the remaining leaves become coarse, and there is enough other greenery in the beds.

The leaves of chives are thin, fragrant, not too pungent in taste, with small, delicate white bulbs, densely covered with a dry jacket. They are consumed only fresh and in no case subjected to heat treatment. Schnitt is grown only in a perennial culture.

If its curtains do not clog the weeds, then it can grow in one place for 5-7 years or more. But I plant it once every 3-4 years, then both the leaves and flowers are larger, and the bushes are neater. And the chives are also good for forcing.

It is early ripening - it is ready for cutting two weeks after the start of regrowth. To do this, I dig out 3-4-year-old bushes, divide them into parts so that they fit well in a pot, or plant them whole in a box, deepening them by 4-5 cm. My family is very fond of green onion pie.

I also use the gentle feather of perennial bows for it. The multi-tiered bow does not have a dormant period. As soon as it gets into favorable conditions, it immediately begins to germinate, therefore it is very good for forcing.

I like to receive more green feather in winter from underground bulbs, for which I store this onion in a cellar with a whole nest until planting. Then I divide it into onions and plant it tightly one to one in pots. In the warmth, the greens grow in a month.

You can also plant bulbs, but even with a very dense planting, the feather will turn out to be more modest. Read also: How to grow chives For making a pie you will need: one pack of puff pastry, 1 kg of onion, 300 g of nettle scalded with boiling water (you can replace it with spinach), 300 g hard cheese, 6 boiled and one raw egg, salt to taste. Finely chop the onion and lightly rub with salt. Scald the nettle with boiling water and put it in a colander to drain the water, then squeeze it out with your hands and chop it with a knife.

Grate cheese on a coarse grater, boiled eggs cut in small pieces. Mix all components of the filling well and divide the dough in half. Roll both halves into 30x40 rectangles. On one - the lower one - put the filling, stepping back from the edges by 2 cm.

Make cuts on the top, stretch slightly and lay on the filling. Pinch the edges. Grease the top of the pie with yolk.

Bake for about 25 minutes at 190 degrees © H. SOLONOVICH, scientist agronomist Photo L. MOGILEVICH (except for multi-tiered bow)

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

It is no secret that ground vegetables are tastier and healthier than greenhouse ones, which is why spring gifts from the garden are so desirable. And the first among them are perennial bows. Of course, we have paid attention to them before. But hardly anyone in the garden has any complete collection.

That is why we decided to talk in detail about perennial onions. The genus Allium (onion) includes half a million species, but only two hundred of them grow in Russia. Almost all of them have high nutritional, medicinal and decorative properties, but, unfortunately, they grow mainly garlic, onion, leek and shallots.

But batun, chives, slime, fragrant, multi-tiered, oblique, wild garlic are rarely seen in gardeners. Perennial onions are rich in essential amino acids, vitamins, have a great effect on metabolism and immunity, their essential oils stimulate appetite and improve digestion. And everyone knows about volatile substances phytoncides with strong bactericidal properties. Perennial onions have other advantages: simple agricultural technology, winter and frost resistance (withstand temperatures up to minus 40 °), resistance to diseases, pests and good harvest within 3-5 years even with repeated cutting.

Unlike onions, perennial onions form a false bulb, which, under favorable conditions, continuously produces leaves. And since the dormant period is short, they are suitable for growing in protected ground or in a room. For perennial onions, a site is allocated outside the main crop rotation - it will be used for 5-6 years.

It is good if the onion corner does not flood water in autumn and spring. The roots of this plant are stringy and lie at a depth of 20-30 cm, so the soil should be very fertile, light texture, neutral or slightly acidic (pH \u003d 6-7), without rhizome and root-sucking weeds.

If horsetail or horse sorrel grow on the site, then liming is first necessary. Prepare the soil in the same way as for onions: in the fall, they add manure, humus or compost (10 kg per sq. M.) And phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for digging, and in the spring under a rake is added nitrogen. Perennial onions are propagated by divisions or sown. The seeds are small, especially in chives, and the germination rate is low.

It is better to sow fresh, and if they lie down (germination rate is below 80%), then the seeding rate must be increased. Before sowing, they must be disinfected.Depending on the type of soil, seeds are placed on a flat surface, ridges or ridges, the latter two methods are useful in lowlands and on cold ground.

It is sown in open ground in April-May and must be mulched with peat or humus (0.5-1 kg per square meter). Seedlings and cuttings are planted in the spring-summer period. In the second and subsequent years, regular feeding is necessary (in early spring and after each leaf cut, 10 g per square meter of potash and nitrogen fertilizers and 15 g of phosphorus fertilizers).

In the first year, a plant with one or three branches is formed, and the next year the same number of flower arrows with spherical inflorescences appear. In late April - early May, chives, batun and multi-tiered grow earlier than others, and later - slime and fragrant. Therefore, by planting a set of perennial onions, you can create a green conveyor. To get greens in winter, 3-4-year-old planting material is selected in the fall and dug up.

Placed in boxes, sprinkled with earth or peat and stored at 0 - plus 2 ° until disembarkation. Chives (chisel, speed) are valued for their decorative effect, high vitamin C content in early spring and good winter hardiness (they do not freeze even in the Far North).

It has fistulous, hollow, subulate, green leaves with a waxy bloom up to 40 cm long. The plants grow strongly and give a powerful bush in the fourth year. Floral arrows are straight, thin, slightly longer than leaves.

They have small globular inflorescences with flowers of various colors: from white to lilac-purple. This onion has two varieties: central Russian (it bushes strongly, leaves grow quickly up to 25 cm, but they also quickly coarse) and siberian (leaves are larger, up to 40 cm long, grow back more slowly and later, but persist up to two months). In our country, Medonos and Nemal are zoned everywhere, and Bohemia, Crocus grow better in areas with mild winters.

Honey plant - mid-early variety. On its plants, dark green penis-sharp leaves grow together in spring. They can be harvested for a long time, the yield is 1.7-2.5 kg / m2.

Chemal is a highly bushy plant with sharp-tasting leaves up to half a meter long. open ground chives seeds (consumption 1-1.5 g per 1 square meter) are sown to a depth of 2 cm according to the scheme 5x25-30 cm, and the cuttings are planted in rows with distances of 30x30-50 cm. In the second year from the first decade of May to at the end of September, the feather is cut, and in an annual culture, it is removed completely when the leaves reach 30 cm. Onion, or chives (Chives). The chive bow pops out first Batun (Tatar, sand, butun, Chinese) looks very similar to young onions, but its leaves are more powerful and twice as rich in vitamin C. All the variety of forms of the batun is represented by three subspecies. russian small, not more than 40 cm, dark green, spicy-tasting leaves.

They branch strongly (in the third year they give 30-50 branches), do not freeze even in the most severe winters with frosts up to 50 °. Russian winter - a new medium-early winter hardy strongly branching variety.

Its dark green, semi-sharp-tasting leaves do not coarse for a long time, and the bush does not shoot. Medium in power, branching and winter hardiness, the batun japanese subspecies. Several varieties belong to it: onion-batun, or Tatarka, or Fist onion (Welsh onion).

For okroshka and summer cabbage soup there is no better batun Salad 35 - an early ripe semi-sharp zoned variety. In the second year, it gives two or three branches. Each has five dark green, up to 45 cm long leaves. Plants shoot early, so the harvesting period is short.

April - an early ripe variety. Leaves are tender, juicy, semi-sharp in taste, bright green, up to 40 cm long. Late shoots. May is a strongly branching late-ripening variety. The leaves are dark green with a strong waxy coating, pungent taste and quickly coarse.

Parade - a variety for an annual crop with a high (up to 60 cm), powerful, erect leaf rosette. The leaves are tender, juicy, green with a bluish tinge, they do not coarse for a long time. The most thermophilic onions from chinese subspecies.

It gives only 3-5 branches, but very large (up to 130 cm tall) with juicy, pungent taste and large diameter leaves. There are no zoned varieties, but it is found in private gardens. Slime onion or Drooping onion (Allium nutans).

Slime of the Shirokolistny variety - in May an excellent vegetable, and in July it will do for a bouquet.With an annual culture of a batun, seeds (consumption 1-1.5 g per square meter) are sealed in early spring and the plant is completely removed next spring. Usually sown with a distance between lines 25, and ribbons - 50-60 cm With perennial crops sowing lasts from mid-June to August.

The plots are planted in the middle of summer in an ordinary way according to the scheme 20-30x50 cm.The leaves are cut after a year at a height of 25 cm.A season - up to three cuts, but the last no later than August. slime (drooping onion) leaves are flat, up to 30-50 cm long and up to 2 cm wide.

They are very fragile, but juicy, with a pleasant onion-garlic taste without strong pungency. Moreover, they do not coarse and retain their advantages until the very autumn. Slime is resistant to peronosporosis and adverse conditions, is rich in ascorbic acid, bioactive polysaccharides and salts important for health.

It is advised to eat it in case of anemia and cardiovascular diseases. Branched onions, Jusai or Allspice (Garlic chives). The spicy onion of the Piquant variety is magnificent.This onion is grown only as a perennial.

Branches all season and forms a squat plant with a cylindrical shortened "bulb". In the second year, it grows up to four branches and several flower arrows up to 60 cm high, each ending with a spherical umbrella-inflorescence. Seeds (1 g per square meter) are sown in April-May on the ridges, and the cuttings are planted in June-August in rows 30x40.

Leaves are cut off at a length of 25 cm. During the season, up to 7 kg of greens per square meter are harvested. In Russia, only one variety is zoned everywhere Green... It is a semi-spreading or compact plant with a strong rhizome and large, succulent leaves.

They are delicate, slightly pungent in taste, with a garlic smell. Recently, breeders have created a new winter-hardy mid-season salad variety Broadleaf... It has a squat false stem and long, wide, lanceolate leaves with a mildly pungent pleasant taste and smell.

They are rich in ascorbic acid and remain tender until late autumn. During the season, with 1 square meter of Shirokolistny plantings, you can collect 3 kg of greenery. Sweet onion good because it has little fiber and it keeps tenderness all season.

Its belt-like leaves, unlike the slime, are without pungency, are richer in vitamin C (up to 100 mg%) and grow continuously until late autumn. In the first year, two shoots are formed, each has 3-6 leaves 30 cm long, and in the second year - floral arrows with white flowers, collected in a simple umbrella. The flowers exude a pleasant smell, like that of hyacinth or almonds. From aromatic onions the variety is zoned Astrologer (in all zones).

Its dark green leaves quickly grow up to 60 cm long, leaf width is 1.5 cm. The variety is distinguished by a semi-sharp weak garlic taste. A new promising mid-season variety has been developed Spicy.

It is more winter-hardy and richer in vitamin C. As you can see, there are more and more perennial onions, including varietal ones, every year. Fresh they are added to salads, as seasonings for the first and second courses.

They can be dried, salted and fermented, while beneficial features perfectly preserved. We hope we have convinced you, dear readers, that it is time to think seriously about the onion corner! Materials used:

• L. Agafonov, breeder - Household farm No. 4-2001

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Advantages and disadvantages of growing winter onions All gardeners are well aware of how difficult it is to keep sevok until spring. When growing winter onions, this is no longer necessary. Nothing will rot and release arrows. Another advantage of this method is that the heads grow very large, since the time for planting in the spring will not be lost in any case. Watering the onions until mid-May is not at all necessary, since the soil still retains enough moisture. The freed up time can be devoted to planting and caring for other crops. Winter onion varieties ripen two to three weeks earlier than usual spring onions. For soups, onions can be taken already at the end of May.Of course, this method of growing has its drawbacks. The main thing is that the yield of winter onions is slightly lower than that of spring onions. In addition, it is believed that its heads are stored slightly worse. Winter varieties of onion sets: selection rules For winter cultivation, you can take only hybrids and varieties of short - medium daylight hours. They begin to form a bulb as early as 12-14 hours a day. Southern varieties of onions are not suitable for growing in the winter way. Varieties intended for planting in spring are also not recommended. The fact is that they tolerate wintering much worse, and when they freeze, they begin to shoot. Most often, as in the case of spring onions, Dutch varieties are used for planting winter crops. Shakespeare variety One of the most popular varieties for winter cultivation is Shakespeare. The heads of this onion ripen early enough (grow in 75 days). Their characteristic features include a rounded shape and large size. If we compare the Shakespeare winter onion with other varieties, we can note, first of all, much denser integumentary scales. Thanks to this, it can withstand temperatures of -18 degrees. without snow cover. For comparison, most varieties of winter onions begin to freeze under -15 grams. The color of the scales is brown. Shakespeare winter onion is distinguished by its white juicy pulp. The taste of this variety is considered to be semi-sharp. Caring for him is carried out in the usual way. Radar variety Unlike Shakespeare, another promising winter variety - Radar - has an average ripening period. Its popularity is primarily due to the excellent taste of the bulbs and their very good keeping quality. The color of the scales in this variety is light yellow. Another distinctive feature is the large head sizes. Grow the bulbs at 150 gr. will not be difficult. In some years, with careful care, the heads of the Radar variety can reach 300 g in weight. Harvest onion Radar winter gives more than good. Ellan cultivar Ellan cultivar belongs to the short-day form. The straw-colored bulbs are round in shape. Their weight can reach 80-120 g. The pulp is white, has a sweetish taste. The Ellan variety ripens in June, when the old onion stocks are used up and the spring heads are not yet ripe. Other varieties The winter varieties of onion sets described above are among the most popular. However, there are others that also deserve attention. For example, very often summer residents of central Russia grow the Senshui winter onion. You can also plant in the fall such varieties as the popular and well-known Stuttgarten Riesen, Sturon widespread in Europe, the early ripening Centurion, Kip-Vell, and some others. Landing dates Like winter garlic, winter onion varieties are planted about a month before the onset of frost. AT middle lane Russia is about mid-October. It is not worth delaying the landing. Unlike garlic, the rest period for onions lasts until December - January. So he will not be able to release arrows and freeze in any case. Nigella is planted in mid - late August. Choosing a place Winter planting of onions feels good in sunny places protected from strong winds. In this case, the garden bed should never be heated in spring. Otherwise, the heads will be wiped out. It is also impossible to choose for planting those places where before that at least some bulbous were grown in the previous five years. Crops such as beans, potatoes and celery are also unwanted predecessors. Preparing the beds A bed for winter onions should be prepared two weeks before planting. The soil should be dug as deep as possible. At the same time, fertilizers are applied to the beds. Humus is considered the best. You can replace it with ekofoska (30 g per 1 m2), superphosphate (20 g) or potassium salt (15 g). Higher doses of phosphorus help winter onions to winter well. This culture responds very well to ash. The beds are best made high. This will reduce the likelihood of freezing. What kind of planting material should be Whatever variety is chosen for cultivation, be it winter onion Radar, Shakespeare or Ellan, you should not take sets larger than 1 cm in diameter. Small bulbs do not give arrows. In addition, the heads grown from them are much better stored in the winter. Of course, the seedlings chosen for planting must be healthy. Bulbs with spots, damaged or rotten should be discarded. Planting onions Before planting, the bed must be properly loosened. The bulbs are planted in a hole manner at a distance of 10 cm from each other in a row. They leave 25 cm between the rows. Some gardeners plant winter onions more often. However, this should be done only if there is not enough space in the garden. Preparing the beds for winter In most cases, winter planting of onions for the winter is mulched. This reduces the risk of freezing. It is not recommended to use peat as mulch. The fact is that the degree of thermal conductivity is very low and in spring it thaws for a long time, retarding the development of plants. Therefore, it is best to mulch the beds with foliage, straw, spruce branches or tops. This should be done when the soil slightly freezes. Mulch is removed in the spring immediately after the beginning of thawing of the soil. Spring and summer care Winter onion varieties require almost the same care as spring ones. In the spring, after removing the mulch, the garden bed should be fertilized with urea (10 g per 1 m2). Next, the landing is loosened. You can sprinkle the bed on top with a small layer of ash. After the plants form about 4 leaves, you need to do another top dressing, this time 10 g of potassium fertilizer and 20 g of phosphate fertilizer. Onions respond best to fertilizers applied in liquid form. Therefore, they should be dissolved in water or in a diluted herbal infusion. Water the onion as needed, preventing the soil from drying out. After each watering, the bed should be loosened.

Onions are such an agricultural crop, the demand for which is difficult to underestimate. No kitchen and no hostess can do without this culture. It is widely popular in hot dishes, in salads, and in various sauces and seasonings, and in canning. And the saturation of the vegetable with vitamins contributed to the fact that now many gardeners and summer residents prefer to grow it in the winter way. Indeed, after a long winter and spring beriberi, green feathers of this vegetable crop are necessary on the table as early as possible.

We all know the phrase "winter wheat" well, but "winter onion" has not yet become widely used by our gardeners. Although at the present stage, this growing method is gaining momentum and becoming more and more popular.

After all, this method of growing does not require any effort and cost and without much hassle allows you to get a very early harvest of such a turnip. And the cultivation technique is on the shoulder even for novice summer residents and gardeners.

Winter onion close up

Not all varieties are suitable for winter cultivation. Especially for this technique, breeders have developed new varieties and hybrids that are able to overwinter under a ball of snow and grow slowly and get stronger in a short daylight hours in winter.

Popular varieties

The most popular winter vegetable varieties are:

1. This variety is able to withstand frost down to minus 18 degrees. It is completely unpretentious and requires almost no maintenance. Harvesting begins 70-80 days after planting. The bulb is regular, rounded with white flesh.
2. This variety has a high germination capacity, excellent taste of bulbs and early ripening. Harvest in early June. Medium-sized turnips with white flesh: 100-150 grams.
3. ... It has the same properties and characteristics as Ellan, only its larger bulbs in favorable conditions reach 300 grams.
4. also has excellent germination and excellent taste. In addition, it has a long shelf life (up to 8 months).
5. It also has an early maturity, good germination. This variety is distinguished by a more pungent taste of the bulbs and a higher content of vitamin C.

Winter onion, regardless of its variety, has a larger fruit size.

Planting and caring for winter onions

Onion crops are usually harvested at the end of the summer season. After harvesting, the bulbs are sorted out and sent to storage. also has its own economic advantages. For spring planting, bulbs of at least 1.5 centimeters are usually chosen, since the smaller ones can simply dry out until spring. These small bulbs are perfect for planting in the fall. Thus, turnips that could simply deteriorate will also please with their harvest. The germination capacity of winter onions is somewhat less than that of spring ones, but given the factor that only culled fruits are planted before winter, the risk of loss in this case is not present at all.

No special soil preparation is required before planting winter onions. It is enough just to remove the weeds and dig up the area. Such a culture is also very undemanding to the composition of the soil.

Winter onion care: weeding and loosening

You cannot plant a vegetable for several years in a row in the same place. If onion or garlic grew on the site, then it is recommended to plant such crops there again no earlier than 5 years later.

Cauliflower, legumes, cucumbers or tomatoes are good precursors to the plant.

There is also no urgent need to fertilize the site before planting a plant. The fertilizers that the onion predecessors received will be enough. You can only add a little ash to the soil.

The site should be in a well-lit place, it is better to choose a hill.

The bulbs are planted at a distance of 8-10 cm from each other, in pre-dug furrows. The distance between the grooves should be 15-20 cm. The turnip is deepened by no more than 3 cm, otherwise in spring it will be difficult for the bulbs to break out of the ground and lightly tamp. This is what makes spring planting from autumn, spring, the heads are buried deeper into the ground. There is no need to specially water the area after planting the onion heads.

The bulbs are planted in the second half of August - the first half of September. Disembarkation dates depend on the region. In any case, it is necessary that the onions be planted no later than 4 weeks before persistent frosts. The plant needs to root well and get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

Before frost, be sure to insulate the area with onions. To do this, it is covered with dry leaves, legume tops, agricultural canvas.

As soon as the snow melts in the spring and the earth begins to warm up, it is necessary to provide the culture with full access to sunlight. For this, the shelter is removed. The beds with the onset of spring and warmth must be mulched. T this procedure not only retains sufficient moisture and warmth, but also prevents overheating.

If it is warm during the day, but there is a threat of night frost, it is necessary to cover the area with agrofibre at night. It not only warms the plants, but also does not impede air circulation. You can also use a film as a shelter, but at the same time, oxygen access to the culture will be very limited.

In the spring, the seedlings can be fed with a weak solution of mullein or chicken droppings... Nitrogen fertilizers can also be used.

Water the area with onions in the spring, after the first shoots appear. Further watering is carried out with a break of two weeks.

Harvesting of winter onions begins at the beginning of June. To harvest, you must carefully dig up ripe turnips.

Advantages and disadvantages of the method

There are quite a few advantages of this method, these are:

1. Profitability. Bulbs are planted before winter, which could not survive until spring.
2. Excellent taste.
3. Unpretentious and undemanding care.
4. Large turnip sizes.