Lunar calendar of work in the garden for August. Work on an alpine slide or rockery. What to do with raspberries after harvest

Whoever sleeps in August will walk hungry. Recall folk wisdom, and make a list of works at the summer cottage.
For housewives, August is the hottest time. Tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, apples, plums, gooseberries, currants ... Just have time to collect and process everything into delicious pickles and jams that will delight your loved ones in winter. But in these pleasant chores, we should not forget about those who provided us with these gifts. Plants still need care. In the last month of summer, you need to do everything: keep track of the beds, harvest the harvest, and plant the site for next year.

Vegetables

CARE

Carry out watering and loosening of the soil, hilling, top dressing. Weed weeds and pest control.
Stop watering the tomatoes in mid-August to speed up their ripening. At the same time, pinch the tops of the shoots of tomato bushes (two or three leaves from the top are torn off, but not separately, but together with part of the stem to stop the growth of the shoot). Remove all stepchildren, small ovaries and flower brushes, on which the fruits do not have time to form. Remove small stepsons and eggplants. And at the pumpkin, cut off all the ends of the lashes with flowers and small ovaries, so that the already formed fruits ripen and gain weight better. Late white cabbage is actively gaining weight by tying heads of cabbage. It is fed once a month with a solution of organic matter or mineral fertilizers. To prolong the fruiting of cucumbers, they are regularly fed and watered, harvesting every two days.

SOWING

Radish, lettuce and dill - for the fall harvest.

COLLECTION

Cucumbers, tomatoes, young potatoes, early and medium cabbage, zucchini, eggplants, squash, peppers, spices... Leave the dug turnip in the garden for five to seven days to dry so that the onion ripens in the sun and forms a husk (this will keep it longer), then dry it in a well-ventilated area. Remove the garlic as soon as the leaves turn yellow.
Dig up the beds from which the crop is harvested. Dug up early varieties of potatoes and mow the potato tops of later varieties about 15 days before the intended harvest.

CONSERVATION

Cucumbers, tomatoes, squash and squash. You can dry herbs.

Flowers

SEATING

At the beginning of the month, start transplanting 4-5-year-old lilies that reproduce in bulbs (they form in the leaf axils). Collect them after flowering, treat with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Sow into grooves two to three centimeters deep, 20 centimeters apart. If the soil is dry, water it a day before sowing, add sand to the grooves.
Plant 3-4 year old primroses. Divide the rosettes and plant them one at a time in a new area at a distance of 30-40 centimeters: the flowers grow quickly. If the weather is dry, water regularly - then primroses will have time to take root well by winter.

In the second half of August, divide and plant rhizome perennials - doronicum, aster, delphinium, phlox, astilba, daylily. Cut off all the shoots first. The rhizomes of some flowers, such as delphinium, easily fall apart when digging up and clearing the earth. Use a well-sharpened soda knife to split astilba, phlox, daylily. For seedlings, take young, healthy parts of the rhizomes. Weed, loosen and, in case of dry weather, water the annuals: asters, marigolds, petunias, sage, zinnias. Tear off dead shoots - this will prolong flowering. To collect the seeds, save some flowers and inflorescences and wait until they ripen.

COLLECTION

Seeds of annuals: cornflowers, godetia, calendula, levkoy, poppy, nasturtium, sweet peas, Turkish carnation, bell and others. After collecting the seeds, remove the plants from the flower bed by the root.

Berries and fruits

CARE

Remove undergrowth under bushes and trees. Place supports under the tree branches so that they do not break under the weight of the crop. Feed the fruit trees with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers - this will increase their winter hardiness. If the weather is dry, be sure to water not only the beds, but the bushes and trees too. However, do not water the apple trees abundantly before harvesting: the fruits may fall off. Falling fruits must be collected daily and, depending on their condition, processed or removed from the site.
Berry bushes (currants, gooseberries) are examined, the diseased and old branches found are cut out, then top dressing is applied, as well as under trees, and the soil is mulched.
The raspberry tree is also put in order in early August, cutting out the fruiting and weak young shoots, if they did not do it immediately after fruiting in July. And closer to the end of the month, pinch the tops of annual shoots to stop their growth and accelerate ripening. It will be useful to add rotted organic matter in the form of mulch with a layer of five to seven centimeters.

Landing

Strawberries, fruit trees and berry bushes. If someone practices mowing strawberries after fruiting and did not have time to mow them in July, then this should be done at the very beginning of August so that enough strong foliage can grow before winter. Weeds in the aisles are removed, loosened up the soil and fertilized using superphosphate or wood ash. At the end of the month, you can plant seedlings of fruit trees (apple, plum, pear) and shrubs (raspberries, currants).

COLLECTION

In August, it is necessary to completely free the bushes of black and red currants from berries in order to create conditions for laying buds for the future harvest. Finish picking gooseberries. Collect cherries and plums.
In the second half of August, pick early varieties of apples and pears (for example, honeydew, early ripening, melba, anise, scarlet, early golden Chinese). The stalk should be easy to separate from the twig. You can harvest sea buckthorn all month. Do not put off until September: the berries will overripe and will toil.

August - the last summer month. Hot, sultry days become warm and clear, more often cool, even cold nights. In the evening, thick fogs appear, and in the morning dew drops glisten in the sun. The motto of the month is harvesting and dividing plants!

Works on the lunar calendar in August 2017

Waxing Crescent (August 1-6.22-31) is a good time for sowing, planting, transplanting, dividing plants. We loosen the aisles, update the mulch, feed everything we need with autumn fertilizers.

Waning moon (August 8-20) - any work with plants: sowing, planting, dividing, transplanting, pruning, harvesting cuttings for spring grafting. We harvest, make preparations for the winter. We prepare beds for new plantings, remove garbage, fight diseases and pests, and feed them with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers for better wintering of green pets.

Basic work in the garden and vegetable garden

1.Planting strawberries and strawberries... You can plant strawberries and strawberries in early spring (in May), but I like to plant new beds for this wonderful berry in August. By winter, wonderful bushes have already formed, and next season fruiting will be earlier. It is better to use the first mustache for reproduction. And at remontant varieties you can take all parts of the bushes with live green buds. Strawberries and strawberries in August are propagated by purchased or own seeds (after all, there are those who like to tinker: those who managed to dry the varieties they liked and collect seeds from them).

2. Harvesting late varieties, early, cherry plum, apples and pears. Summer varieties are stored for a short time, about 2 weeks. However, you can make wonderful compotes, preserves, jams, homemade wine from them.

3. We collect black, red and white currants.

4. Raspberry care... Rows of raspberries require attention in August: it is necessary to cut out the sprouted shoots, remove excess shoots, leaving no more than 3-4 young shoots on one bush, and also feed them with autumn phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and shed them well.

5.Working with potatoes... The early varieties are harvested, and the rest are hilled again. If you overexpose potatoes in the soil, they will begin to grow again, especially in thickened plantings. As soon as the tops of the potatoes begin to turn yellow and dry out, they are immediately dug up, sorted by size. Tubers from healthy bushes are left for seeds, whole, not damaged. Seed potatoes are left in the sun for 3-4 hours so that the skin hardens and microbes die. Then the potato tubers are hardened in the light under a canopy for 10-14 days so that it is better stored.

6. Vegetable care... In August, it is necessary to pinch the tops of the bushes, and. And the whips are formed, leaving with the fruits.

7. Watering and feeding trees... Summer-autumn varieties of apple and pear trees lay fruit buds in August-September, and winter varieties often do not have time to accumulate the necessary substances (they often bear fruit, as a rule, after a year). We must help the trees. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out good watering in August (about 50 liters of water per adult tree) together with the introduction of organic fertilizers (90-110 g per 1 m² of crown projection). In August, the growth of shoots is already ending, the apical bud is already formed and there is no fear that the wood will not ripen. Do not forget that it is better to apply fertilizers dissolved in water, since the granules, getting into the acidic soil, quickly turn into a form that is poorly absorbed by plants. You can also spray trees with urea solution (about 50 g per bucket of water).

Works in the flower garden

The main work in the flower garden is the division of plants.

Lawn work

In August, we mow and water the lawn. If the turf is compacted, the water is not absorbed for a long time, then before the next watering you need to walk along the lawn with an aerator. It will help remove caked stalks of grass that have turned into felt, preventing air and water from reaching the roots. If there is no aerator, then you can walk along the lawn with ordinary pitchforks and make punctures every 10-15 cm.

Works with a reservoir

They clean algae and duckweed, if they have appeared, and also cut off overgrown water lilies and remove faded flowers. When the weather is hot and the water level in the reservoir decreases, then you need to top up the water. If there is a submersible pump in a pond or stream, then it is worth getting it out and cleaning it. At the end of the month, some trees and shrubs may already begin to shed their leaves, they are promptly removed from the water surface.

Work on an alpine slide or rockery

On an alpine hill, in a rocky garden, or continue to fight weeds, remove wilted inflorescences. If some plants have grown, violating the required design, then they are planted or replaced with others.

Calendar of work in the garden and in the garden in August. Work in the country in August. What needs to be done in the garden and in the garden in August.

List of works in the garden and in the garden for August

1. In such weather, when the soil temperature drops to 12 degrees Celsius, the root system of heat-loving plants does not work, and in order to maintain the growth point, the plants begin to take nutrients from the leaves, so the foliage turns yellow and falls off prematurely. In order to support the plants, foliar feeding is necessary. The Uniflor-Bud fertilizer is best suited for these purposes; 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water are enough. Spraying should be done in the evening or in cloudy weather. The time should be chosen so that it does not rain for at least 3 hours after spraying.

2. In greenhouses, the main enemy of tomatoes is late blight and fruit rot... Now it is no longer necessary to use chemical agents, it is better to use iodine (a 10 ml bottle per 10 liters of water). Repeat spraying after 3 days. You can use "Fitosporin", spraying is carried out every 10 days. The fruits should be sprayed with a solution of calcium chloride (dilute a 200 ml bottle of a 10% solution in 2 liters of water and spray only the fruits once and always the stalk).

Protect peppers from stem rot in the same way as cucumbers. Gray or white mold must be removed with a dry cloth or soaked in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, and then dust this place with ash. Can be covered with gruel from chalk, potassium permanganate and water.

3. On cucumbers, bacteriosis and anthracnose should be removed with Fitosporin. Do not use chemicals, including copper preparations.

4. Remove the soil from the bulbs so that the bulb stands on the soil on the roots. Drizzle with sodium chloride solution (1 glass of salt in a bucket of water) and leave the onion uncovered.

5. The same should be done with cabbage: first, shake off the soil and pour a solution of salt on top of the head, and then, unlike onions, spud again. Do not forget to regularly, about once every 15 days, water the cabbage against the keel with a solution of calcium nitrate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, half a liter under the bush) or milk of lime (1 glass of lime or dolomite, you can chalk per 10 liters of water, half a liter under the bush).

6. Only biological preparation "Fitoferm" can be used against pests on vegetables.

7. If you have not yet planted garlic before the winter at the end of August, then about the 25th - 26th try early planting of garlic this year. Pour 1 tablespoon of sand into each hole for garlic cloves approximately 12 - 15 cm deep, dip the AVA fertilizer granule and a clove of garlic, cover with a spoonful of sand on top and cover with soil. With such a deep planting, garlic will not sprout in the fall, but it will develop a powerful root system with which it will leave before winter. The fertilizer will last all summer and no additional fertilizing is required, and the sand will create micro-drainage around the head of garlic, and it will not rot.

By the way, specifically against the rot of bulbous crops there is such a preparation "Maxim", in which it is generally good to soak all bulbous crops before planting.

8. At the beginning of the month, as soon as you harvest the currants and gooseberries, immediately feed and process the berry bushes. When harvesting, remove spider nests, dried berries, curled leaves and burn them.

Berry growers begin to lay the harvest next year, their root system begins to grow, so they need mineral feeding with superphosphate and potassium. For red currants and gooseberries, it is enough to take 1 tablespoon of double superphosphate and 2 tablespoons of potassium per bush, and for black currant 2 tablespoons of double superphosphate and 1 spoon of potassium. Fertilizers are best applied to irrigation in dry weather and dry sealed in the topsoil in rainy weather. It is undesirable to use potassium chloride, especially for gooseberries, since it will immediately shed the leaves, and leaves are also needed for the successful development of roots. Gooseberries can shed their leaves prematurely and in prolonged droughts if you don't water them.

9. In August, berry farmers should not be given nitrogen fertilizing, especially with infusion of weeds or manure, since nitrogen causes the growth of the ends of the branches. This new growth will not have time to lignify by winter and will dry out in winter. On the contrary, it is better to stop the growth of branches. To do this, pinch (tear off) the tops of the branches of black currants and gooseberries, but not of red currants, since it is at the ends of the branches of red currants that the largest number of fruit buds are laid. This is why you should never trim the ends of red currant branches. In black currants, on the other hand, the ends of the branches can be shortened annually.

10. Weeds under the bushes should be cut with a flat cutter or weeder, burying it about 2 cm in the soil, and leaving them directly under the bushes.

11. If there are a lot of pests, including aphids, as well as with a slight defeat by powdery mildew, you can use such an old folk remedy: Throw a shovel of fresh manure into the middle of the bushes, naturally, without embedding it in the soil or scattering it around the perimeter of the bush where the sucking roots are located. The smell of manure disorients the pests, and they leave such a bush or even fly around it. In addition, the evaporation released by manure has a detrimental effect on the spores of the powdery mildew fungus.

12. The beginning of August is the deadline for processing strawberry plantings. It is necessary that the bushes have a large green mass by the end of August, since we very often have early and rather strong frosts at the very end of August or the very beginning of September, and strawberries have the most weakness Is a rhizome. It is necessary that the strawberries cover it with their own leaves. If you did not manage to process the bushes before mid-August, leave them to winter as they are. For strawberries, this is better than bare, not covered with leaves rhizomes.

13. In strawberries, the rhizome grows (sticks out) upward, and in its upper part young roots grow, which need soil, so the bushes should be cured or sprinkled with new soil, but so as not to fill the heart. Fruiting of strawberries falls over the years for this very reason: young roots hang above the ground and simply dry out or freeze. On the remaining part of the old rhizome under the soil, there are not enough young roots for abundant fruiting.

14. If you applied the AVA fertilizer when planting strawberries, then you do not need to feed the strawberries for 3 years. And if you did not do this, then under each bush, half a tablespoon of azofoska should be embedded in the soil. Strawberries need nitrogen in its composition at the end of the season to grow young leaves that winter under the snow.

15. Sometimes the question is asked: should the strawberry leaves be cut? It should not, since it will begin to grow new leaves to the detriment of the laying of fruit buds, the yield will decrease. Mowing can be done no later than the 20th of July and only in two cases: if you are growing large plantations of strawberries for selling berries or you have old plantings - 3 or more years ago. When mowing, do not touch the heart, otherwise you will make your strawberries disabled.

16. Don't miss the return of the weevil to strawberries. Examine the young leaves carefully. If there are punctures or small holes, immediately treat the bushes with Fitoverm.

17. At the end of the month, white dots may appear on old, reddening strawberry leaves - mushroom pycnidia, causing the disease anthracnose. Nothing bad will happen, even if the strawberries overwinter with these leaves, if you thoroughly sprinkle the bushes with Fitosporin solution or spray with Zircon. Any of them will disinfect the leaves. Old leaves will cover the rhizome and protect the bush from freezing in frost without snow.

18. If in the spring there was powdery mildew on the gooseberry, it can destroy the bush (gray felt bloom on the leaves and berries). We'll have to do spraying right now with Vectra or Topaz, or better Zircon, and then again at the end of August or at the very beginning of September, if by that time there are still leaves on it. Weeds should be weeded out and the soil under the bush should also be treated with one of these preparations.

Next spring, be sure to carry out three treatments: on young leaves, then after 2 weeks on young ovaries and after harvesting, in order to eradicate the causative agent of the fungus for 4-5 years. If powdery mildew has damaged only part of the bush, and the rest of the berries are clean, then these preparations should not be used, but a couple of times before harvesting the entire bush should be sprayed with Fitosporin, and only after harvesting should be sprayed with Vectra or Topaz ".

19. The same applies to apple trees affected by scab (first black spots on the leaves, then black spots on the apples). You can use either Vectra or Speed, but again it is better to use Zircon.

20. Cherries, plums, sea buckthorn and lilacs are removed in August. root growth... If you want to take root offspring from them, then this should also be done in the first half of August, and it is not recommended to take them close to the mother trunk. It is best to take them 1.5 - 2 m away from it, otherwise you will severely damage the roots of the mother plant.

21. If cherries or plums have premature yellowing and leaf discharge already in August, then the reason is either moliniosis or coccomycosis. Spraying three times with the "spring cocktail" during the season will help stop the death of the tree for a while, but it will not be possible to completely rid the plant of these diseases. Sooner or later, you will have to say goodbye to it, since it will bear fruit worse and worse. Shoots from such a plant should not be taken - there is a disease in it.

22. In flower beds, a red beetle - lily hoverfly - can inflict great damage on lilies. It can be successfully fought with an excellent remedy against the Colorado potato beetle "Sonnet". When you process the potatoes, process the lilies as well. In addition, rust - botrytis may appear on oriental hybrids. Fortunately, it does not spread to the bulbs, but it damages not only the leaves, but also the buds and flowers. Therefore, planting lilies should be regularly, once every 2 weeks, sprayed with Bordeaux liquid or any other copper solution. Zircon helps very well with Botrytis.

Folk weather signs for August

❧ If August 27 was a quiet evening, then the autumn will be clear, and if there was a storm, then September will be rainy.

❧ If yellow leaves appeared on the trees in early August, it will be early autumn.

❧ If there are a lot of nuts, but few mushrooms, then there will be a cold and snowy winter.

❧ Abundant fruiting of red rowan by cold winter. The abundance of wild berries also portends a cold winter.

❧ Ants build tall anthills for the cold winter.

❧ If there are a lot of acorns on the oaks, it will be a warm winter.

Weather for tomorrow

❧ Cats and dogs sleep stretched out for good weather, curled up in a ball for bad weather.

❧ If fog appears in the evening and spreads on the ground, then the weather will be good.

❧ If the fog rises from the water and land in the early morning, it will be a hot day.

❧ If bubbles appear on the puddles during rain, the rain has charged for a long time.

OUTDOOR PLAN FOR AUGUST

1. When the soil temperature drops to 12 ° C, the root system of most vegetable plants stops working, and in order to maintain a growing point, they begin to take nutrients from the leaves, so the foliage turns yellow and falls off prematurely. To support the plants, foliar feeding is necessary. The Uniflor-Bud fertilizer is best suited for these purposes; four teaspoons per 10 liters of water are enough. Spraying should be done in the evening or in cloudy weather. Timing should be chosen so that it does not rain for at least three hours after spraying.

2. In greenhouses, the main enemies of tomatoes are late blight and fruit rot. Do not use chemicals, so use iodine (50 mm 5% iodine in 10 liters of water). Spraying should be repeated after three days. You can use "Fitosporin" (2 tablespoons of solution per 10 liters of water), the treatment should be carried out every 10 days. You can spray with "Zircon" (4-6 drops per 1 liter of water) or dissolve a stick of fresh (not dry!) \u200b\u200bYeast in 10 liters of water. The fruits should be sprayed with a solution of calcium chloride (be sure to the stalk!).

3. Protect peppers from stem rot in the same way as cucumbers.

4. Bacteriosis appears on cucumbers at this time, against which the drenching of plants directly on the top of the head with a solution of "Fitosporin" helps. And a little later, anthracnose may appear. Then Zircon will help. It is impossible to use chemicals, including copper preparations.

5. Remove the soil from the bulbs so that they stand on the soil on the roots. Drizzle with sodium chloride solution (1 glass of salt in a bucket of water) and leave the onion uncovered. The same should be done with cabbage: first, shake off the soil and pour the salt solution over the top of the head, and then, unlike onions, spud again.

6. Do not forget to regularly (about once every 15-20 days) water the cabbage against the keel with a solution of calcium nitrate (3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water, half a liter under the bush) or milk of lime (a glass of lime or dolomite, you can chalk it on 10 liters of water, half a liter under a bush).

7. Only Fitoverm biological product can be used against pests on vegetables. Let me remind you that "Healthy Garden" perfectly helps the plant itself to resist pests. If there are too many of them, then increase the concentration to 5-6 grains per 1 liter of water.

8. If you've never planted garlic before winter in late August, try planting early this year. For the North-West, about 25-26. Punch holes for the garlic cloves approximately 12-15 cm deep, in a 10 x 10 cm or 15 x 15 cm pattern.Pour a tablespoon of sand into each, dip the AVA fertilizer granule and a clove of garlic, sprinkle with a spoonful of sand on top and cover with soil. With such a deep planting, garlic will not sprout in the fall, but it will develop a powerful root system, with which it will leave before winter. The fertilizer will last all summer, and no additional fertilizing is required, and the sand will create micro-drainage around the head of garlic, and it will not rot. By the way, there is such a drug "Maxim" specifically against the rot of bulbous crops, in which it is generally good to soak all bulbous crops before planting. But I only use it for flower crops, and soak onion and garlic in Fitosporin solution before planting.

9. At the beginning of the month, as soon as you harvest the currants and gooseberries, you should immediately feed and process the berry bushes. When harvesting, at the same time remove spider nests, dried berries, twisted leaves and burn them. Berry growers begin to lay the harvest next year, their root system begins to grow, so they need mineral feeding with superphosphate and potassium. For red currants and gooseberries, it is enough to take one tablespoon of double superphosphate and two tablespoons of potassium per bush, and for black currants - two tablespoons of double superphosphate and one spoonful of potassium. Fertilizers are best applied to irrigation in dry weather and dry embedded in the topsoil. It is undesirable to use potassium chloride in rainy ones, especially for gooseberries, since it will immediately shed the leaves, and leaves are also needed for the successful development of roots. Gooseberries can shed their leaves prematurely and in prolonged droughts if you don't water them.

You should not give the berry farms in August nitrogen feeding, especially the infusion of weeds or manure, since nitrogen causes the growth of the ends of the branches. This new growth will not have time to woody by winter and dry up in winter. On the contrary, it is necessary to stop the growth of branches, for this it is necessary to pinch (cut off) the tops of the branches of black currants and gooseberries, but not of red currants, since it is at the ends of the branches of red currants that the largest number of fruit buds are laid.

10. Pay attention to young leaves of strawberries (called strawberries). If punctures and small holes appeared on them, then a weevil returned from raspberries to winter on strawberries. This is the most opportune moment to deal with him. It is imperative to spray the bushes with Fitoverm or, at worst, Decis.

11. If you have not managed to process the strawberry bushes by mid-August, leave them to winter as they are. For strawberries, this is better than bare, not covered with leaves rhizomes. If you applied the AVA fertilizer when planting strawberries, then you do not need to feed the strawberries for three years. If you have not done this, then you should put half a tablespoon of azophoska into the soil under each bush.

12. Late August - early September is a good time to start a new strawberry plantation. In our North-West, I prefer to plant young strawberries in early June. To do this, I leave the 4 nearest sockets to winter with the mother plant, removing all the rest. At the beginning of summer, having separated the grown rosettes from the mother bush, I transplant them directly on the shovel along with the soil into the prepared holes. Such a transplant is called transshipment and takes place without damaging the plant root system. The bushes bloom and give their first harvest in the same summer.

13. From cherries, plums, sea buckthorn and lilacs, all root shoots are removed in August. If you want to take root offspring from them, then this must also be done in the first half of August, and you should not take them close to the mother trunk, best of all - 1.5-2 m from it, otherwise you can severely damage the roots of the mother plant ...

14. In flower beds on oriental hybrids of lilies, rust - botrytis may appear. Fortunately, the disease does not spread to the bulbs, but it damages not only the leaves, but the buds and flowers. Therefore, planting lilies should be regularly, once every two weeks, sprayed with Bordeaux liquid or any other copper solution. Of course, it helps to cope with Botrytis "Zircon" very well.

15. Phlox, dahlias, annual asters are blooming. Plants spend all their reserves on this. Feed them. Best of all, superphosphate, together with potassium (a tablespoon of each for 10 liters of water).

August is a hot season for vegetable growers. It is necessary to take care of the plantings in the ground and in the greenhouse, to collect ripe vegetables, to sow something and transplant. The first half of the month is usually hot and dry, but the nights get cold. Dew falls out, sometimes it gets colder, so it is necessary to provide for warming of heat-loving crops, cover the beds with film or non-woven material. In August, they continue to water and loosen the soil, fertilize, remove weeds, fight against pests and diseases, which are especially rampant this month. But there are also pleasant chores: picking tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, eggplants, zucchini, squash, spicy herbs.

You can selectively pick carrots, beets, rutabagas, daikon for food. These vegetables require thinning, especially beets, otherwise the roots will be small. If it is poorly watered, it may bloom - in this case, the root crop will become woody, unsuitable for food. The beets are not hilled, the root crop grows by half in the air.

Bush dill

Do you want to receive fragrant greens all spring a large number with only ten bushes? Pay attention to bush dill. It is more often grown in a greenhouse, it can be combined with tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers, but it grows well in the ground, preferably through seedlings. The varieties of this dill do not bloom for a long time and do not produce seeds in the central zone of Russia. Disease resistant, greens contain more essential and aromatic oils than ordinary dill. Shrub varieties are powerful, 1.5 m high and above. The rosette of leaves is large, with 24-30 large leaves, the length of which reaches 35-45 cm. In the axils of five to six leaves, lateral shoots grow, making the dill look like a bush.

It is best to grow bush dill through seedlings In March-April, dry seeds are sown in holes two or three weeks after germination, when two or three strikes appear, dill dive into pots with a diameter of 8-10 cm 35-day seedlings are planted in spring film greenhouses in early May, feeding the week before. The first two weeks after planting, regular watering is carried out. The collection of greens is carried out many times: first, the plants collected during thinning are eaten, then, as they grow, the leaves in the lower tier are cut off (two weeks after planting the seedlings). When the lateral shoots grow back, they are cut off gradually, when the top of the stem begins to lengthen (the plant is preparing for flowering), it is cut off completely. The harvest is very high, from five to nine kilograms per square meter.

Bush dill does not need to be sown: having grown one plant, you will use greens all season, saving seeds and labor. Sow it every 20-25 cm: first, the seeds are laid out every 4 cm, and when the seedlings reach 6 cm, they are thinned out. In total, three decimations are made. Dill beds should be well dug up and fertilized with humus (half a bucket per 1 sq. M) and mineral fertilizers (1 tablespoon per 1 sq. M). Do not add ash, dolomite flour, lime under dill, otherwise it will grow poorly and turn red. Regular watering is a must for success. It is also necessary to regularly loosen the soil and weed weeds.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers are harvested every two to three days to allow others to grow. The high temperature and humidity in dense cucumber bushes contribute to the appearance of powdery mildew: small white spots appear on the leaves, they seem to be dusted with flour. Then they gradually curl up, turn black and dry. In this case, the treatment of plants with fermented grass will help: the bucket is half filled with grass, poured hot water, insist for two days and filter. One teaspoon of urea or 1 g of potassium permanganate is added to one liter of infusion and the plants are sprayed.

Tomatoes

In mid-August, watering of tomatoes is stopped to speed up the ripening of the fruits. At the same time, the tops of the bushes with flowers are cut off, since the fruits will no longer work out of them, and the nutrients are spent on them. In August, there is an outbreak of late blight on tomatoes, in the Kuban, for example, this is a real trouble that begins with potatoes. Zeros do not take action, you can lose the entire crop - The disease develops especially quickly in wet weather: with rains, dew and fog, cold nights, a drop in day and night temperatures. Brown spots appear on the leaves, brown spots on the fruits. The leaf turns yellow, dries up, the fruits harden and become unfit for food. Do not miss the beginning of the disease! In order to save the harvest, you need to early remove healthy green fruits, rinse in hot (55-60 degrees) water, then cool, dry and put to ripen. If black spots are found on the fruits, they are cut out, the undamaged remains are well washed and salted. Diseased fruits, leaves and plants must be removed from the garden and burned. For prevention, tomatoes are covered with foil overnight.

A good result in the fight against late blight is given by regular, once every five to seven days, pollination of plants with ash or drinking ash infusion (300 g of ash are boiled in a liter of water for 10-15 minutes, cooled and filtered).

You can sprinkle the plants with kefir (leave 1 liter of kefir to stand for two days, then mix with a bucket of water.

If this does not help, at the first signs of illness, use a new drug "Profit" (the package is diluted in five liters of water), wetting the leaves. After that, the fruits are not harvested for twenty days.

Leek

Remember to spud the leeks from time to time to get a thick, white stem by fall. It responds well to feeding with ash, fermented grass or diluted bird droppings (1:20) with the addition of 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer to a bucket of water.

Zucchini and squash

Despite the fact that the ripening of the fruits is in full swing, the care of squash and squash continues. Plants are watered at the root, fed, old ones are cut lower leavessprinkling the cuts with crushed coal. This technique allows the bushes to ventilate better and prevents powdery mildew. Put pieces of boards, plywood under the fruits so that they do not rot.

Cabbage

No matter how diverse the cabbage is taken away, the farm cannot do without varieties that can be stored. Remember that white cabbage of medium and late varieties requires frequent regular watering, loosening and hilling, otherwise the forks will turn out to be small and loose.

Pepper

Greens

In August, you can harvest sorrel by drinking and feeding the plants after cutting. Canned or frozen sorrel is an excellent preparation for the winter In the second half of August, it is not too late to repeat the sowing of dill, Chinese cabbage, lettuce, mustard, and watercress. In hot weather, the crops must be darkened, it is better with some non-woven material; in cool weather, stretch the film on the arcs, without closing it from the ends. August is the best time to breed perennial onions by dividing the bushes. It is enough to have only ten bushes of chives to provide the family with fresh greens from spring to autumn. Cut feathers can be dried and used in winter. Chives grow in one place for three or four years, then the bushes must be divided, otherwise the feathers are chopped and planted at a distance of 10 -15 cm apart. Slime with flat long leaves and a mildly spicy taste also multiplies.

With August, summer tends to decline. The garden lights up with a crimson-yellow color, is colored with a scattering of ripening fruits and berries. Only manage to collect, prepare, process.

Currant

The collection of black currant ends. Don't miss the harvest: the berries of most varieties quickly overripe, burst and crumble. But in white and red currants, they stay on the bush longer, therefore, you can start collecting and processing them a little later. Take a closer look at the black currant bushes: young wrinkled brown leaves may contain milky white or slightly yellowish larvae of the latest generation of currant leaf gall midge, which will go to winter in the soil. To prevent this, the leaves with the larvae are plucked and burned. At the end of the month, they begin to propagate red and white currants with lignified cuttings. In more late dates cuttings of colored currants take root much more difficult and longer.

Berries

Gooseberry picking is coming to an end, raspberries gradually disappear. By mid-August, the fruits on sea buckthorn can become discolored, flabby, burst and spread. This lesion is called endomycosis. Its pathogen persists and hibernates in the skin of diseased fruits, so they are harvested before the main harvest and destroyed somewhere farther from the garden. August is the best time to plant strawberries. They make a hole with a scoop or spatula, fill it with water and lower the roots directly into the mud, spreading them with your hand. Sprinkle with soil tightly. The heart should be at the level of the soil, you cannot fill it up, otherwise the plant will die.

Stone fruit

With the end of berry harvesting, the processing of cherries and plums is in full swing. Plum seeds are harvested for sowing: the plants obtained from them can be used not only as rootstocks, but also as a perfectly acceptable planting material. Unlike other fruit crops, plum seedlings, although they do not repeat parental properties, as a rule, turn out to be

plants with valuable economic qualities. Collect seeds not only in your garden, but wherever you can, let the variety of varieties be richer. After all, this is exactly how varieties of folk selection are created.

Apples

In the second half of August, the collection of early varieties of apples and pears begins. If apples are overexposed on a tree, they will overripe and crumble, lose their taste and cannot be stored for a long time. Fruits late removed from the tree, although they have a wonderful appearance and taste, quickly overripe in maturation. In addition, they drain the tree, which will negatively affect its wintering. However, you can not collect the fruits and ahead of time, in this case, they will not gain the taste inherent in the variety and will also be poorly stored.

Attention! Readiness is determined by the so-called removable maturity. Its characteristic features: easy separation of the stalk from the branch, brown color of the seeds, change from the green color of the skin to green-yellow or yellow. But removable maturity in many varieties is only a signal for harvesting fruits, while they may still be unsuitable for consumption. Although in early varieties, the removable maturity coincides with the consumer one, such apples can be enjoyed right from the tree.

On the apple tree trapping belts are looked through: at the beginning of the month, one can see pink caterpillars with a brown head, pupae or empty skins of larvae in them. This is the second generation of the codling moth butterflies. It is very difficult to fight it during the ripening period, but it will still be less if you destroy the caterpillars and pupae accumulated in the trapping belts and regularly collect the carrion. By the way, it is already quite ripe for processing.

In August, thick branches are often torn apart by the heaviness of the harvest and the strong wind. If this happens, immediately pull them off with a soft wire, after putting a burlap bandage above this place, and on top of it - wooden plates. Cover the tightened gap with clay mixed in half with cow dung: a thick layer of this mixture protects the exposed wood from drying out, freezing and infection. For disinfection, add a solution of ferrous sulfate to the mixture (200-250 g per bucket of water). During the fall and winter, the headband and wire tie should be inspected and maintained. With this care, the branches will continue to live and bear fruit normally.

While it's warm and dry, it's time to close up the hollows in the trees of your suburban area... Smooth the edges by cutting them to live wood with a hacksaw and clean with a chisel. Inside, clean the hollow to healthy wood using a semicircular chisel on a long handle and a special homemade scraper (bend an iron strip 3-5 cm wide at right angles at one end, heat it red hot and flatten it with a hammer). Disinfect the cleaned hollow with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate (300 g per 10 L of water) or a 5% solution of ferrous sulfate (500 g per 10 L of water). If the hollow is damp, leave it for a few days to air and dry. Then proceed with the filling. Cut a few circles out of a piece of tulle and place on the bottom to isolate the seals from excess moisture. Fill the hollow to the very top with layers of gravel 10 cm thick, filling each with liquid cement (one part of cement for six parts of river sand). Smoothly seal the outside of the hollow with cement with a slight slope so that rainwater does not linger. After two weeks, when the cement filling is dry, you can cover it oil paint.

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